Against All Odds – An Chị Em’s Work in Vietnam

The first drops of rain from the tail of Typhoon Kalmeagi have just this afternoon started to fall in Saigon. We’ve been on high alert for 24 hours, after the government cancelled all after-school activities for four days.

In the end, the forecasters didn’t quite get it right for the south, as Kalmeagi smashed its way through parts of the centre of Vietnam last night, with no repercussions for us down here.

Photos from Quy Nhon, further up the coast, courtesy of a friend visiting there, show quite clearly that Kalmeagi meant business. An awfully high death-toll in the Philippines earlier in the week confirmed as much.

Our storm seasons out here are forever stretching in their longevity. The end of October used to be the marker for a switchover to drier times – but that is not our norm anymore.

12 years ago to the day, a bunch of us flew into Manila, as Typhoon Haiyan was about to wreak havoc about 400kms away. In the end, Haiyan was one of the heaviest recorded storms on record. None of our crew were affected at all, but millions of Filipinos lost their livelihoods and many were killed.

As I’ve previously documented, since living in Southeast Asia now for almost 15 years, it will never be possible to fully appreciate how fragile life out here is for the vast majority of Vietnamese, Filipinos, Cambodians, Laotians, and the many other countries nestled into this very special corner of the world.

Daily flooding in our local neighbourhood is already a constant source of disruption for many living in precarious structures, where floors fill with river water gushing up through the sewers at high tide. Let alone the damage they have to buffer when the monsoon rains slam down like stair-rods through their corrugated iron roofs.

Typhoons and cyclones take this destruction to the next level of suffering. The Boxing Day Tsunami in 2004 was one of the first times the world has seen in real-time just how scary the power of nature can be, particularly when up against frail infrastructure.

I took a train down from Colombo to Galle in Sri Lanka about six years after the tsunami, and heard stories of how hundreds Sri Lankans had run way from their beach dwellings and onto a stationary train, to seek cover from the wave, only to perish as the force of the ocean flipped the carriages over.

Here in Saigon, locals often seem to shrug off the perils of the weather – they are, instead, more preoccupied with making a living than they are of re-upholstering, again, their furniture and securing their belongings.

Over my years at CARE, learning about how solutions to protect communities from seasonal bad weather are designed and scaled, it does just feel like a never-ending saga for the billions combating some of the world’s most destructive natural disasters.

That saga could one day be softened if governments were to make high-level decisions about their collective stewardship of the environment. The world’s largest corporations could also have a more profound impact on the welfare of vulnerable communities, through tougher regulations and fairer access into markets for those currently excluded.

There are lots of moving parts to this, and much ground to yet be covered. The Boxing Day Tsunami was over twenty years ago and still the vulnerability of many millions seems ever increasing, along with the regularity at which these weather-based events are happening.

And, in the meantime, it is the resilience of local communities and the efforts of a small number of entities that continues to make the most life-changing daily and incremental improvements and adjustments to the lives of these communities.

One entity here in Vietnam is called An Chị Em – which translates as “Brothers and Sisters”.

Their work is in the mountainous communities of Trà Bồng in Quảng Ngãi Province. They are a social-enterprise, set up by Colin Dixon, a long-term resident and friend, and their core mission is to partner with vulnerable communities facing economic, climate and infrastructure pressures.

They span emergency aid (responding when storms, floods or isolation hit), sustainable development (including clean water and housing upgrades) and education sponsorship (giving children whose families are marginalised the chance to stay.

An Chị Em are taking a local approach to finding solutions that ensure they are building back better: not just in terms of improved resilience, but also in terms of dignity. Better-built houses that resist seasonal storms, access to clean water so that time isn’t wasted fetching it, children freed from the burden of interruption when disaster strikes, and communities that are less exposed to the elements.

Their “brick by brick” approach in Trà Bồng as one small but powerful counterpoint to the anxieties of storm season. Their work can’t wait for government legislation, or private sector investments. They have to act now, and in each and every moment of tomorrow, and the day after.

I would urge you to take a look at their website (links above and below) and check out how you might get involved.

Thank you and have a safe weekend x

Yolanda

Image courtesy of Ted Aljibe/AFP/Getty images
Image courtesy of Ted Aljibe/AFP/Getty images

You don’t need me to point out where this photo was taken, nor what messages sit behind the faces within it.

I only have admiration for those people who are on hand in the Philippines at the moment, helping, and only great sadness and hope for those whose lives have been altered forever.

For any long standing visitors to my blogs, it will hopefully have been made obvious by now that I have involved my organisation, CARE International, and the developmental issues we address around the world mainly as a platform from which to couch ideas and thoughts – mainly, in other words, as a lens through which I can write.

The world has collectively reacted to the images created by the Haiyan (Yolanda) typhoon, and we have all shared our thoughts with loved ones, friends, colleagues, people sat next to us on the bus.

Pointless as it typically is to try and immediately draw any conclusions as to what events like these ‘mean’, or what they reinforce to us all as fellow citizens on the planet, the one thing that remains tangible and easy for many of us to do, is support the work of those agencies who are, today, right now, saving lives.

It is not my intention to use this space again to promote CARE or the work of the other DEC (Disaster Emergency Committee) members, but today, and right now, that is what I am doing.

Here is a link through which you can lend your support:

http://www.careinternational.org.uk/news-and-press/latest-news-features/2459-typhoon-haiyan-this-will-haunt-me-for-a-long-time-

Food glorious food

Dark green forests and plantations, rolling hillsides dotted with the metallic roof tops of local sugar cane farms and homesteads.  Uneven tarmac, and battered shop awnings displaying adverts from bygone eras for hot chocolate, soap powders and cigarette brands.  School children, immaculately dressed, walking hand in hand along the roadside, taxis, bicycles and spluttering trucks whirling inches past them.

I could be back in Uganda 15 years ago, but in fact am in the Philippines city of Davao.  

It is the largest city in the world in terms of sheer geography, but where I am, more towards the outskirts, you do not feel much of the effects of urban sprawl, and the comparables here with the sights and sounds recalled from time spent in Africa are striking.  

The tropical latitude shared by the Philippines and the part of East Africa that I know best, mean that from the moment you step off the plane in Davao (located in the south of the country, an hour and a half flight from its capital, Manila, in the north) you experience the uplifting smell of equatorial life, its warmth, moisture and its connections with nature.  A permanent background noise of birdsong and grasshopper symphony follow you about, day and night. Continue reading