Thanks Be

Many Happy Returns to my old man today!

A “1949-er” and, as the photos below demonstrate quite clearly, somewhat of a cool dude.

From ’60’s boy band heart-throb and ’70’s hipster chic, to ’80’s Bond pin-up – there have been many noteworthy wardrobes and styles my Dad has cut through the years, each worthy of an Esquire front cover.

There are plenty more pics from the archives to fill a dozen blogs: Dad tightly crammed into a brown wetsuit on Polzeath beach, during one of our annual pilgrimages down there with the Sparrow family; Dad dressed in a black and red striped 1930’s full body toweling swimsuit, while completing a fundraising swim, when we lived in Great Kimble; or, for variety’s sake, Dad dressing up for pantomime to play Dorothy (blond wig + beard) in The Wizard of Oz one year, and then Widow Twankie (silver wig, clean shaven) in Aladdin the next – you can take your pick.

As today also happens to be Thanksgiving, and we’ve spent the morning preparing mash potato pie, it feels more timely than usual to celebrate not only Dad’s latest trip round the sun, but to pay a brief homage to all of the rest of it, too.

Thanksgiving, as a traditional past-time, is about sharing gratitude to those around your table. But its origins run a bit deeper than that, because survival back then depended on a number of things that can often feel very distant to our lives today. Those first harvest tables were less a symbol of indulgence and more simply about relief. Quite literally: we made it through another year – we are still here.

Gratitude is a formidable thing in itself.

Talk of gratitude is there in religious texts, and has been passed down the millennia through scholars and writers alike who, collectively, seem to have agreed that to be grateful is, fundamentally, to recognise the sheer improbability of existence. There is a beauty and an awe in waking up each day to the miracle that anything exists at all.

There isn’t, of course, anything more powerful for us to agree upon, and so today it feels to me, over here in Asia, all the more pertinent to add my thanks and gratitude for all the magical things I hold close at heart, and which have been made possible thanks to my parents – even if one of them sometimes chooses to dress up in a blue and white checked gingham dress and a blond wig.

Later today, Mum and Dad are heading into London to meet my niece for a slap-up lunch, and then onto watch another great dame – Sir Stephen Fry – play Lady Bracknell in The Importance of Being Earnest. I couldn’t find a fitting quote from the play to end this on. It is, after all, a satirical romp, that doubles down on gratification rather than gratitude. And, while gratification is also a popular word on the bingo card of Thanksgiving, it is not the same thing.

Gratification is more akin to a feeling of achievement – cooking and eating and sharing a meal, being one example many millions of people will carry out today.

There is gratification in reflection, and also in the joy of what is yet to come, but I would say that gratitude is, instead, a way of seeing all of this. The two can be mutually reinforcing, perhaps.

In any case, the last word from me on this today is from poet, David Whyte, whose take on gratitude I find to be the most gratifying.

Happy Birthday Pops x

Gratitude is the understanding that many millions of things come together and live together and mesh together and breathe together in order for us to take even one more breath of air, that the underlying gift of life and incarnation as a living, participating human being is a privilege; that we are miraculously, part of something, rather than nothing.

Even if that something is temporarily pain or despair, we inhabit a living world, with real faces, real voices, laughter, the colour blue, the green of the fields, the freshness of a cold wind, or the tawny hue of a winter landscape.”

David Whyte, Consolations.

Homage to my hombre

When I applied for our Australian residencies over five years ago, at one stage of the process I had to log every trip made over the previous ten years (for my daughters also). Quite the task, it turned out, given the privileged nature of how I have spent my time living overseas.

In spite of all the hours I’ve notched up sat in musty metal tubes, soaring over countries and continents before being spat out the other end, I’m always be-dazzled by the experience.

Inhaling Saigon’s humid fumes on a Tuesday evening one minute, buzzing through a throng of scooter traffic enroute to Tan Son Nhat airport, you are just two to three plastic trays of food (washed down with gulps of industrial strength gin and tonic) away from squinting down at the London Eye the following morning, the white glare off the city’s skyscrapers winking back at you.

Home from home.

Last month, I flew back to England briefly, a short touchdown in Doha between Saigon and London Gatwick, before I trundled off through customs and boarded a train to Brighton. Half an hour later and I’m walking out of the station and onto Western Avenue, down a small laneway and onto the pebbled beach, bacon sandwich and coffee in hand.

The sea was murky, and the waves were heavy, but the feeling of salt water on the skin and the cold clumpy sand between my toes was spectacular. Like it was worth travelling over twenty hours just for that.

Staring across to the end of Brighton’s famous pier, I spotted the Helter Skelter ride, calmly battered over the years by gales and the slow erosion of the ratan mats that slip-slide around it, before flopping onto the cushioned base.

Florence and Martha have swooshed down that Helter Skelter, in the summer of 2018, and in their pre-teens. They did so with the son of one of my oldest friends, Quinten, aka “Q”. We met at the beginning of secondary school in 1986. Alphabetically organised, our single wooden-top desks were set out in lines: Ahn, Ali, Babcock, Baura, Bishop and Bullock – we were the first row from the classroom door.

Back then, Q (Babcock) had a shock of blond hair and ruby red lips. I use that last description poignantly because, only last night, Q and his family were sat here in our apartment in Saigon, and his children were joking about how red his lips still are. One of the school dinner ladies, Q recalls, once asked him very loudly if he was “wearing lipstick” as she dolloped a ladle of mashed potato onto his plate. The accusation has made it into family folklore ever since.

In any case, Q and Alex and their kids are, as these words are being typed out, about six hours into their flight back to London. They safely completed a two-week romp around the south of Vietnam, book-ending the visit in Saigon, and indulging with us in some of our favorite past-times – eating, drinking and playing games.

The added bonus for me, these past couple of weeks, was to see how smoothly all our kids connected with each other.

Akin to when Flo and Martha meet up with their UK or their Australian cousins, they simply dive in and have fun. Second-hand clothes markets were frequented (thanks to Issy), cocktails and mocktails at our local Japanese bar were sampled, Vietnamese spring rolls were ordered, and re-ordered, nails were painted, balls were thrown in the pool. It was all so very easy. New surrounds for them, new visitors for us to show around. A win-win.

As we turn our sights to a transition to Melbourne in 2024, it’s times like those we’ve just had with special friends that makes long-distance relationships bind even deeper. You find yourself taking off from where you last left things, as if the time in between has evaporated. There is a clarity of purpose, a steady flow of stories and sharing. Even the simple past-time of playing a game of cards is attributed an extra sprinkle of pleasure.

These moments are treasured, and these lifelong connections are everything.

Thank you Babcocks!

Piemonte

Beneath lavender rosemary scented calm,
Vine-laden squares of golden green
Lie framed
Within this morning’s bright ceramic canvas.

Staccatos of gravel crunch underfoot,
Off beat
And lost amidst nature’s purring symphony,
Forest warbles,
Farm percussion.

Nature’s purest offering
Distilled to nourish,
Dust-coated vessels
Preserving ancestral norms.

To breathe in again
This cicada dawn chorus,
This bejeweled vista,
Is to silence the heart –
To love once more.

Cossano Belbo, Aug 2019.

Feeling at home, far away from it

The weekend sun rising. Kuala Lumpur airport.

Pit-stopping on the way back to Saigon – Starbucks, Kuala Lumpur airport, no less – I’ve the usual frisson of excitement about walking back through our garden at home a few hour’s from now, picking up the girls (Issy is in Germany this week, checking out fashion trade shows) and flopping on the sofa.

After five days in Sri Lanka, to work with our Chrysalis team there (musings on which from earlier can be found over here) I don’t, in some ways, feel like I was away from ‘home’ much at all this week.

I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Sri Lanka about ten times since 2009. I’ve written about it quite a lot, and that, no doubt, underscores why it’s one of my favourite places to spend time.

Aside from the professional experiences gained from engaging with our team there, and the organisations and people I’ve met along the way, it’s the day-to-day flow of contact and the momentary interludes that weave through these trips, which I think bind each together in a way that feels so familiar and reaffirming.

Moreover, it’s the simple easiness curated by the people you meet which imbues such a comfortable backdrop.

Dropping down to Galle on a quick pre-wedding whistle stop reconnaissance earlier today, to check on bookings and inhale the ocean breeze, I learnt about the reality of the recent Easter Sunday attacks, in terms of their impact on the tourism industry.

Not unsurprisingly, many tourists canceled their trips in May and June as a result of the bombings, and some hotels had to close completely. July and August are typically low season months too, and so a few hoteliers I met spoke of the “double whammy” of the events happening when they did.

Bookings are picking up again now. And whilst there is heightened security evident, things seem to have settled down. The country just this week was elevated to “middle-income” status by the World Bank, and the high ranking top spot given by The Lonely Planet earlier in the year to Sri Lanka, appears to have been reallocated back to the country, even though most of Sri Lanka remains in a state of deep shock over the events of April 21st.

With such charming scenery, culture and opportunity for the visitor, let’s hope that a  positive trajectory of tourist bookings returns.

As my taxi driver, Mahinda, took a short detour this evening, on our way to the airport, to stop and offer me tea and bananas at his house, and the opportunity to meet his wife and daughter who was awaiting her ‘A’ level results, I was touched by the sentiment and the care he took to make me feel welcome.

I found the same hospitality and warmth earlier in the week when invited over to my Air BnB host’s living room, to share dinner with him and his wife.

Listening to Mahinda’s daughter talk about her plans for university, and for finding work somehow with her degree (biology) I couldn’t help hope that, in the future, not only will my daughters have the self-esteem and spark to be excited about a feeling of “doing my best” in the world, as this young woman did, but also that they – and beyond them, that I too – hold close that very core humanitarian embodiment of connection and understanding that I felt, sat with a cup of tea in my hand, listening to and being a small part of, this family’s time together.

The overwhelming feeling of being truly welcomed into their home, for a few precious moments, will stay with me forever.

Colombo at dawn.

 

 

Wanderlusting

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Sunset on Dili beach, Timor-Leste
I double checked the meaning of Wanderlust – which turns out to be the “strong desire for, or impulse to, wander or travel and explore the world”.

Since running off to Uganda when I was 21 years old, in the absence of having any more concrete a plan for how to handle life after university, I’d say my Wanderlust levels have remained piqued ever since.

No doubt some genetic influence from my parents helped fuel my appetite for getting out and “seeing the world”. In reading Dr Suess poems to my daughters (as well as flying them off to different countries almost every school holiday) I suppose instinctively it feels appropriate to want to pass on that particular piece of DNA, connected to wandering, to them also.

Over the past five years, even without that DNA, the travel I’ve undertaken as part of my job has secured for me a schedule for which any aspiring “Wanderluster” would have been thrilled.

As someone working in international development, I can’t quite settle my mind about how conflated my footprint and actions in the world are. Choosing to direct my career into finding better ways to serve the poor, whilst simultaneously responsible for emitting more carbon in an average month than the output my entire family back in the UK manage in a year (ok, Mum and Dad are relatively guilty on the carbon too, but I wanted the analogy to sound extreme!)      Continue reading

A Brief Spell Down Under

Monday. And, so far today, I’ve flown to Singapore and just put in six hours working out of a business lounge and still have another eight to go before I get to kip (am Colombo bound this evening for the week…)

Mustn’t grumble however as, since my last post about our summer holidaying in Europe, Issy and I have also just indulged in a trip over to Melbourne earlier this month for weddings, family birthday partying and some brief flirting with a delicious vineyard and the salty ocean road inhalations on offer down in Sorrento.

As is the form when I get back over to the UK, trips like these are extremely special and also meticulously executed, in order to maximise each and every hour with all the important things in life.  In the case of this particular trip, the important things consisted of: new babies; zany nieces; legendary siblings; old school friends; and then an inevitable immersion in all of the particular shopping experiences and drinking haunts yet to reach the humid back-streets of Saigon.

We fitted it all in, and lapped it up (although, truth be told, for me to be accepted into the funky suburb of Fitzoy I’ll need to grow an exceptionally impressive beard – and this may take me a while.)

Video compilations with be forthcoming however, in the meantime, heartfelt thanks to Mark for the most spectacular day at Yabby Lake, to Phoebe for all the snippets of special laughs and larks, to Pobby for the Aga coffee and the egg and bacon pie on arrival (plus about two dozen other mouth-watering dishes enjoyed throughout the week) and to Mike for a lesson in cryptic cross-wording that I will never forget (I hope the Tuesday Latin tutorials continue to go well).

To all the other family and friends entourage, thank you for making me feel at home and for making me smile, constantly.

And to Alice and Richard Cook-Watkins. For seating me opposite the bride (I have been dining out on that since) and for laying on a seamless day of memories for us all.

So, as Mike would recommend – to anyone curious enough to ask – it is with whisky that one should finish one’s day and so, in spite of the fact that I am long off being asleep, I may just – on this one occasion – take him up on that and bid you farewell, for now…

Until next time.

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Melbourne skyline. Obvs.

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Emily, Archie and Ben. Stripey boys.

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Fitzroy chic. Also obvs.

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OK, I’ll admit it, the coffee ain’t too bad here…

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These lot know how to do ice creams.

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Replica clock-tower from Ben Thanh Market, Saigon. Love it!

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End of day beer at Naked for Satan. Yeeees.

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Brunswick Street bakery. Spectacular.

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‘Knock off’ gin and tonic time in the garden.

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Pobby’s kitchen. Aga toast – ooooooooooooooooh!

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Yabby Lake vineyard.

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The calm espressos before the twelve bottle tasting storm. Happy days.

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The BEST lunch.

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Diamond Bay. Hmmm.

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Issy likes green. I like blue.

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Everyone likes a good sunset.

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Pin the tail. Hazy’s 3rd birthday.

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Squirt the person who is pinning the tail.

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It’s OK, it’s only Sam!

The Art of Smiling

Late to the party, as usual, I’ve been enjoying the work of Yang Liu – a Chinese-German artist http://www.yangliudesign.com/ whose interpretations of the differences between these two cultures is captured in her East vs West series.

Interpretations which make for some fun talking points for a Brit like me, who has now been living in Vietnam for a year or so.  Take a look at your leisure…

Continue reading

Model parenting

When I am not travelling with my job, (I like to think) I play a key role in the “getting up and getting ready” part of our family’s day, as well as offer some well-timed interventions at the “winding down, it’s time for sleep now” part.

However, at weekends I get the chance to experience the full effects of being in charge of both our children for longer than about two hours at a time.  With Lou out shopping yesterday for our upcoming trip back to the UK, up stepped Mr Model Dad, on hand to ensure a day of quality food and entertainment lay ahead for everyone.  I realised though, on reflection later in the evening, that I may still have a way to go. Continue reading